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Weeping Pillar on the Upper Weeping Wall.
Grade & Length: V, WI6
Approach: Park at the signed “Weeping Wall†parking lot about 25 minutes North of the Saskatchewan Crossing, or 15 minutes South of the Columbia Icefields. If you miss the sign, you certainly won’t miss the enormous sheet of ice right beside the road.
Walk 5 minutes to the base of the Lower Weeping Wall.
Route Description: A kick-ass day of climbing with lots of steep ice! One of the best WI6 ice climbs in the Rockies.
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Overview of the common routes up the Lower & Upper Weeping Wall.
Start by climbing a line on the Lower Weeping Wall. The Central Pillar route (WI5+) is the respectable way to go on your way to the upper. Hike up snow slopes above for 15 – 30 minutes, depending upon snow depth.
Weeping Pillar goes up the middle or right side of the feature, and can be climbed in 3 long pitches with belays in caves or ledges out right. The last pitch is usually the crux, but sometimes the middle pitch is harder.
An often easier variation called Teardrop climbs the left side of the feature, and can form as WI4 except the last bit which is still usually grade 6 and sometimes has an ice roof to finish.
Descent: Rappel both the Upper & Lower Weeping Wall.
Gear: Screws.
Objective Hazards: Beware of large pillars & detached curtains hanging above, they tend to fall off during temperature fluctuations. Some avalanche hazard.
